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Tuesday, December 12, 2017

The Wave

By Kristy McCaffrey

The Wave
On a chilly December day I embarked on a hike with my dad to see The Wave. While you may envision us searching for an ocean overlook, this swell of nature exists along the Arizona/Utah border among the bottom of Utah’s Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and the upper section of Arizona’s Paria Canyon-Vermillion Cliffs Wilderness Area. And after that mouthful, all you really need to know is that it’s a really cool-looking sandstone alcove.

To enter the North Coyote Butte Special Management Area, where The Wave is located, you must have a permit. Only 20 people per day are allowed—10 through a lottery system and 10 for walk-in permits submitted the previous day. It took my dad two tries to gain two permits and to my great fortune he invited me along. To understand this you must know that my younger sister is a ski patroller, nurse, gun-toting park ranger, and well-versed in search and rescue. I, however, am a writer. Who would you choose to take into the wilderness? Exactly, not me. So I was thrilled by the invite. I might not be able to save my dad should he fall from a cliff, but I’d be able to inscribe my thoughts about it later.

We arrive the day before in Page, Arizona, and stay the night in a hotel. We arise early the next morning, find a Denny’s open at 6 a.m., and eat a hearty breakfast since our day packs aren’t filled with anything hot and tasty. The drive to the Wire Pass parking lot—the start of the trail head—is about 43 miles from Page. The last 8 miles are on a dirt road that is impassable when wet, the red clay turning into a slippery muck. With the day overcast and the air a bit misty, the fact that we threw a few sleeping bags into the back of my dad’s truck at the last minute suddenly seems like a good idea.

You are required to sign the roster before hiking into
the wilderness. Unfortunately people have died here during
the summer months. It's important to carry enough water.
The parking lot houses a restroom and a sign-in, likely to find those who enter and never return. But this wouldn’t be us since we feel well-equipped with a very detailed map provided by the Bureau of Land Management, a compass, and a GPS. But the start of the trail head soon leads to a non-trail. We don’t pay close enough attention to the landmarks provided on the map and manage to spend the first hour in the wrong direction. Of course the GPS indicated we were moving farther away from our target rather than closer, but in my defense it was the first time I’d used the GPS app on my smartphone. I figured we were taking a circuitous route that would eventually bring us to where we needed to be. Our detour did lead to an awesome slot canyon, however. And after backtracking we were soon headed in the right direction. We made certain we nailed every landmark thereafter.

The view as you hike to The Wave.
The 5.5 mile hike scrambling over sandy hills and red rock takes us about 2 hours, the terrain offering sweeping views of sandstone pillars, red rock buttes, tiny cacti growing in crevices, and giant juniper trees standing vigil. It’s a desolate and quiet place, far from civilization.

At last we climb a hill just below a prominent landmark called “the Black Crack” and enter the alcove known as The Wave. The undulating swells of sandstone greet us and we’re awed, but admittedly slightly confused. Is this all there is? I think we both thought it would be more like a bowl viewed from above. Another hiker arrives and having been here before explains the layout. We must climb to above the alcove to find the picture-perfect spot, the one that he stakes out with his tripod and camera for the next several hours. I’m using my small handheld camera until my dad drops and jams it, then I switch to my phone camera. Even with our less technical approach to photo-taking we still get awesome and surreal pictures. The rock flows like water around us and the eye can hardly believe it’s authentic. We find the Second Wave and Hamburger Rock (per the hiker’s directions) and snap more photos. My dad wants to climb ever higher, but I’m beginning to feel tired and cold so I hang back. I begin to worry that he might come rolling off that cliff after all but he soon returns in one piece.



Hamburger Rock
The Second Wave



There are dinosaur tracks in the area but we decide the GPS coordinates will likely send us on a wild goose chase clinging to the sides of the cliffs, and we can’t muster enough enthusiasm to warrant the search. Instead we drop into the small canyon below, exploring the narrowing curves of the walls as they close in on us. We eat lunch here, somewhat sheltered from the wind, and decide to begin our return hike.

The way back isn’t difficult but the landmarks are not easily discernible, blending into one another in a blur of red rock upon red rock. We reference the map and GPS frequently. My dad attempts a few compass readings but the simple device is deceptive. In our weary state we realize neither of us really knows how to use a compass. Luckily my phone battery is still above fifty percent. We’re soon sitting in a warm car.

My dad and I at The Wave
All day I faced my own insecurity about entering the wilderness, a nagging worry carried forward from childhood that I’m not the adventurous daughter, that my dad would be better off here with my sister, whose entire life is an ode to Mother Nature herself. But I’m pleased that I was able to put these doubts aside. I embrace the challenges instead of complaining at their presence. The day unfolds in the only way it can, from one moment to the next, and within that is a happiness that sits with me now and into the days that follow. My dad and I had an immensely good time. And to honor his choice to invite me along, I now do what I do best—I write.




To all my lovely readers and writer friends, I wish you all the merriest of holidays and a bright 2018!! See you in January ~
Kristy




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17 comments:

  1. What an amazing bit of nature. Congratulations for tackling the hike, Kristy! I'm not sure I would have tried, but you've inspired me to attempt the next challenge I might have refused. Merry Christmas!

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    1. Tracy,
      Yes, the moral to the story is to believe in yourself even when you're feeling a bit out of your element lol. Merry Christmas!!

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  2. What a delightful and intimate perspective you gave me about your life, your relationship with your dad and your insecurities about going into the wilderness. I wonder if your dad chose you to help you discover your inner courage and resourcefulness along with him.

    I love that you got a picture of you with your dad there. It will be a picture you will, I am certain, always treasure and to remember that journey you took with your dad.

    BTW, I had heard of The Wave before, but I had no idea the complicated way in which a person must gain permission to enter this natural wonder. I would love to see dinosaur tracks. Wow!

    I really admire you even more for being willing to attempt such a difficult trek.

    I wish you a very Merry Christmas, Kristy.

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    1. Aww, thanks Sarah. It was definitely a memorable trip. Merry Christmas to you and your family!!

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  3. Wow, Kristy, just wow! If you had simply filled this post with those incredible photos of the Wave that would have been enough! I've never seen anything like. Nature is amazing. But then you went on to explain about why this hike was significant to you and I'm in awe. I would've have been really anxious about getting lost too. I didn't know your sister is a park ranger. She must have some stories. And you can tell them! Season's greetings to you and your family.

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    1. Thanks, Patti! Yes, my sister has some interesting tales...;-)

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  4. Kristy, that is amazing. I didn't even know this was part of our world. Thanks so much for sharing it and these wonderful pictures--what an adventure to share with your dad! I love it.

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    1. Thanks Cheryl. For as famous as it is, it's really tucked away in the middle of nowhere.

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  5. Stunning! So glad you had the chance to go and that you shared it with us. Sigh, I do love places like this. Doris

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  6. Kristy, I have seen pictures of The Wave, but I'd not thought much about it except WOW! That's an amazing bit of nature. Your description gave meaning to the image. I've undertaken those 'iffy' adventures in my younger days. (I wouldn't do it now, that's for sure and certain. lol) I had tears by the end of your article, because you truly have a treasure chest full of memories with your dad from this excursion. How wonderful for both of you.

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    1. Aww, thanks Kaye. It was definitely a memory to treasure.

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  7. Really an interesting post, Kristy. Great pictures!!!

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  8. Tracy, oops, I missed this yesterday so here I am and sorry I am to be late. What wonderful pictures and I thoroughly enjoy each one. What a wonderful adventure to take, esp. with your dad. Nothing better. So, what if you aren't Miss Nature, I give you a lot of credit for taking the leap and I'm sure it was exciting. How beautiful our land is and so very different from state to state. I wish I could visit each and every one of our beautiful states, but know that will most likely never happen. But we can try to see as much as we can before we can't do it. So enjoyed your blog and thanks. Wondering what your next adventure will be.

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    1. Bev,
      One of the wondrous things about the internet is the ability to 'travel' to all sorts of places we'd never know about otherwise. Thanks for popping in. Merry Christmas!

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  9. Wow...wowwww, Wow!!!!! I am so impressed. Since I am a natural born scaredy cat, a patsy, a wimp...you impress me even more. Even when I was young I did nothing like this at all! But I do enjoy reading about others and their exploits. You are something elsea! Love hamburger rock!

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