You
probably know fruitcakes have been around for a long time. What is sometimes subjected
to disparaging comments was at one time prized as a travel food, both in this
life and to send with the deceased into the next.
Culinary
lore claims that ancient Egyptians placed an early version of the fruitcake on
the tombs of loved ones, perhaps as food for the afterlife. But fruitcakes were
not common until Roman times, when pomegranate seeds, pine nuts and barley mash
were mixed together to form a ring-shaped dessert. Prized for its portability
and shelf life, Roman soldiers often brought fruitcake with them to the
battlefields. Later, in the Middle Ages, preserved fruit, spices and honey were
added to the mix and fruitcakes gained popularity with crusaders for their
portability and their longevity.
 |
| Medieval Kitchen |
Fruitcakes
became popular all over Europe. Recipes varied greatly in different countries
throughout the ages, depending on the available ingredients. For a time in the
Middle Ages, fruit cakes made with butter and sugar were banned in Europe because
they were thought to be too rich and tasty. Pope Innocent VIII (1432–1492)
finally granted the use of butter, in a written permission known as the ‘Butter
Letter' or Butterbrief in 1490, giving permission to Saxony to use milk
and butter.
Starting
in the 16th century, sugar from the American Colonies (and the discovery that
high concentrations of sugar could preserve fruits) created an excess of
candied fruit, thus making fruitcakes more affordable and popular.
My
grandmother, daughter of 19th century English immigrants, used to
make fruitcake using a recipe she claimed came from England. She never gave the
recipe to me while she lived since she was sure I would share it with all the
ladies at church, then everyone would have her good fruitcake recipe. My aunt
inherited my grandmother’s recipe box and sent me the recipe. In honor of my
grandmother’s wishes, I still don’t share it outside the family.
The practice of adding
alcohol to fruitcake to help preserve it started in the Victorian era. (My grandmother's parents' era. She used
brandy-soaked cheesecloth to wrap her fruitcakes she made at least a month
before the holiday season. She then wrapped the whole works in aluminum foil. She swore the
alcohol evaporated before the cake was served. Okay, if she says so…)
From
the 19th century on, fruitcake became a traditional wedding cake in England. (My
grandmother made a groom’s cake for my wedding out of fruitcake. I tried to carry on the
tradition with my children, but they were less than enthused.)
Typical
American fruitcakes are rich in fruit and nuts. Mail-order fruitcakes in
America began in 1913. The two largest producers of fruit cakes are Southern
companies with inexpensive access to large nut quantities, for which the
expression "nutty as a fruitcake" was derived in 1935.
Most
American mass-produced fruitcakes are alcohol-free, but traditional recipes are
saturated with liqueurs or brandy and covered in powdered sugar, both of
which prevent mold. Brandy (or wine) soaked linens can be used to store the
fruitcakes and is one method of lengthening its
shelf life. Some people feel that fruitcakes improve with age.
One
reason fruitcakes have become the objects of ridicule is because of their
questionable age. If prepared correctly, they do preserve well. When a fruitcake
contains a good deal of alcohol, it can remain edible for many years. For
example, a fruitcake baked in 1878 was kept as an heirloom by a family (Morgan
L. Ford) in
Tecumseh, Michigan. In
2003 it was sampled byJay
Leno
on The Tonight Show. A
106-year-old fruitcake discovered in 2017 by the Antarctic Heritage Trust was
described as in "excellent condition" and "almost" edible.
My
grandmother would probably suggest that in order to make the above-mentioned fruitcake more
edible again, it needs a good wrap in a brandy-soaked length of cheesecloth for
a month or two.
In
my book, Bridgeport Holiday Brides, to whom did
Beth give a Christmas fruitcake? The answer is found in this excerpt:
“No
wedding trip first, Mrs. Dodd?” the lawyer teased.
“I
figure on takin’ care of business first, Mr. Murphy. Besides, my weddin’ trip
will be to my own land.” Beth pulled her reticule onto her lap pulled the
strings apart. “How much you figure I owe you?”
“I
almost hate to charge you for the satisfaction of helping put Edwin Caldwell in
his place, Mrs. Dodd. But, even lawyers have to eat.”
Beth
paid him the fee he requested, although she suspected he gave her a discount.
She decided she’d bring him a Christmas fruitcake at the time of her final
payment.
Please CLICK HERE to find the book description and buy link for Bridgeport Holiday Brides.
Have a wonderful holiday and a very merry Christmas. Enjoy that fruitcake!
Sources:
Wikipedia
https://recipes.howstuffworks.com/menus/fruitcake1.htm
https://www.cbc.ca/kidscbc2/the-feed/the-secret-history-of-fruitcake
